THEY'RE TAKING ME TO MARRAKESH
Once again, I am facing leaving without having written about the last trip. I will write a few quick blogs about my time in Morocco, Turkey, London, and Portugal so I can publish the photos—which is what always drives the blogs! I hope you enjoy it. I'm already looking forward to the next trip, where I will attempt to write contemporaneously. These trips have provided me with unique experiences and insights into different cultures and histories, which I am excited to share.
Returning to Marrakesh after a delightful two-week stay in Essaouira, I was drawn to the Medina side of the city. During my one-night stay earlier in the trip in the "new" Marrakesh, I made a point to explore the enchanting Jardin Majorelle. The renowned designer Yves Saint-Laurent acquired this sprawling one-hectare botanical garden in the 1980s. Originally crafted by the talented French artist Jacques Majorelle, the garden boasted a stunning flora adorned in the vibrant "Majorelle blue," a hue named in honour of its creator. After Saint-Laurent lovingly restored the neglected garden, it morphed into a must-see attraction, drawing crowds of visitors eager to partake in its beauty. Nonetheless, it had been transformed into more of an elaborate backdrop for Instagram snapshots rather than a serene oasis.
Arriving at the Medina was a revelation. The familiar Jemaa-el-Fnaa, with its snake charmers and food stands, remained unchanged, yet the surrounding buildings had undergone a dramatic modernization. The Medina, with its intentionally disorienting design, often led me astray. The towering 6-8 meter high and 1.4-2 meter thick walls, originally built to repel invaders, and the labyrinthine layout, meant to confuse intruders, frequently left me lost on my way back to the charming Riad de l'Orientale. Even with the aid of my phone, I found myself going in circles, only managing to quickly find my way back on the fourth day, just before my departure.
I went on a tour with a friend of Mohammed's, also named Mohammed. We began outside the Medina in the Jewish quarter area, also known as Hay Essaian or the Mellah of Marrakesh. This area was established by a decree in 1558 to safeguard non-Muslims living in an Islamic state. It later became an important commercial district in Marrakesh. In the 1940s, the population reached around 40,000 people, but after the independence of Israel, many people left for other countries. Now, there are fewer than 200 Jewish residents living there.
The Sagha or Grand Bijouterie is an ancient jewelry market that was once exclusively owned by Jewish jewellers. It is the city's oldest jewelry market and features a variety of small shops offering historic gold and silver jewelry, precious gemstones, intricately adorned boxes, and belts. Although it was initially established by Jewish jewellers, today, only a few Israelite merchants continue to operate within its premises. Despite the fewer stores, a significant amount of jewelry is still available. In 2014, the government launched a restoration program to restore the Jewish Quarter to its full splendour, making it an important tourist destination.
As we passed the Synagogue Salat Al Azama, we encountered a group of vibrant, colourful men. Historically, these men used to sell water while donning elaborate and eye-catching costumes to attract customers. Today, their attire continues to captivate attention, drawing in tourists who eagerly pay to take their photos alongside them.
As we strolled through the bustling streets of the Medina, we were filled with wonder and excitement. The vibrant energy of the market, the unique sights, and the sounds of artisans practicing their crafts all around us created a sense of intrigue and eagerness to explore. Regrettably, our non-Muslim status prevented us from entering the beautiful mosques that dotted our path. However, the musical call to prayer, known as the Adhan or Azan, echoed through the air five times daily, creating a serene atmosphere. Each Moazzin's unique voice added to the enchanting symphony, with some delivering their call more melodiously than others, and at times, we were treated to a harmonious overlap of multiple Moazzins' calls.
Our visit to the Bahia Palace was a journey through time, as we marveled at the grandeur of this architectural gem constructed for Sultan Abu Ahmed. The palace, an intricate network of different spaces, housed a grand hall for administrative activities, four equally spacious rooms for the Sultan's wives, a section for 24 concubines featuring shared rooms and a dining area, a school where the Sultan's children received their education, and a private area reserved for the Sultan himself. Following Morocco's independence in 1956, the palace transitioned from a royal residence to a symbol of culture and heritage, attracting visitors from around the globe.
While we were there, I accidentally dropped my cell phone in a glass-fenced room. Mohammed, the tour guide, tried to retrieve it with a pole. Another guide picked Mohammed up when that failed and placed him inside the room. He grabbed my phone and jumped out!
During our exploration of the Medina, Mohammed took me to one of the Farnatchi, a traditional wood-burning oven underground that heats the Hammam and the nearby bakeries. A dedicated individual is responsible for tending to the fire. He warmly invited us into his home, the Farnatchi, where he graciously served us some tea. As we conversed, I couldn't help but see what a difficult life this must be. As we left, I admired the vibrant street art that adorned the door to the Farnatchi's dwelling, a testament to the rich cultural tapestry of Marrakesh.
While continuing our tour through the bustling marketplace, our senses were filled with the sights and sounds of various artisans practicing their crafts.
One particular artisan was meticulously painting tiles, while nearby, metalsmiths were shaping and forging metals. The air was rich with the scent of freshly tanned leather, and the vibrant colours of intricately woven rugs caught our eye. Amidst this symphony of craftsmanship, Mohammad, with a radiant smile, asked me to capture a photo of him with the enchanting lamps he holds so dear to his heart—a request I was more than happy to fulfill.
After bidding farewell to Mohammed and taking a refreshing break at the Riad (which even had a bathtub!), I ventured out to experience the vibrant atmosphere of Jemaa-el-Fnaa at night. The square came alive with a symphony of sights and sounds as the surrounding cafes and restaurants buzzed with activity. The air was filled with the enticing calls of fruit and spice vendors, while the daring snake charmers defied the dusk by captivating onlookers with their fearless performances. Amidst the hustle and bustle, the flickering glow of lanterns being set up illuminated the scene as street performers entertained the crowd. The presence of bird and monkey handlers added to the exotic allure of the place, and the tantalizing aroma of snails and goats' heads from the food stands beckoned adventurous eaters.
During my last four days in Morocco, I had the opportunity to explore the vibrant Medina and immerse myself in the unique atmosphere of my Riad. On the final evening of my visit, Mohammed treated me to a memorable dining experience at Dar Naji, a newly established restaurant. Upon arriving at the restaurant, guests are welcome to dance along the intricately designed rugs leading to the entrance. Once seated, I was presented with a traditional Fez hat, adding to the authentic Moroccan ambiance. The menu featured a delightful selection of Moroccan dishes, allowing me to savour the rich flavours of the region. A band filled the air with the vibrant sounds of traditional Moroccan tunes, immersing us in an entertaining and culturally rich musical experience. We had a delightful meal, and I had great company.
The next day, I went to Marrakech Menara Airport (RAK) to board my EasyJet flight to Basel-Mulhouse, followed by a Pegasus flight to Istanbul. Upon reaching Basel, it was crucial to carefully select the appropriate exit leading to either France or Switzerland. It was a moment when seeking help was necessary, as I could have easily found myself heading to the wrong country without proper guidance.
Later I arrived in Istanbul....but that is for another day.
Until next time........
